LESSON 23 - Privacy




Electric companies can tell if a a constant running 400 watts or 1000 watts or being used in your household. Never let police come inside your house if they knock, instead tell them about someone who just moved in, new electronic equipment like televisions and computers. Make sure that any light leaks are sealed, and turn off the alarms in your house as they will attract 911 and neighbors if there is a break in, the best way if to find a guard dog to watch your house if you are away and afraid off someone trying to rip you off or police. Make sure if any service people come to your house that they do not accidentally walk into your growing space.


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  • LESSON 22 - Cloning




    Cloning is the process of taking a cutting off a plant and re-growing this cutting into another plant. A clone will have the same age as the plant it is taken off of, so a cutting taken off a 3 week old plant will have the same characteristics of a 3 week old plant. If a plant is much older however, such as ready to mature and show sex at about 5-6 weeks, the clone will be able to immediately enter the flowering state after it has rooted. Clones are usually taken during the vegetative state instead of the flowering state as taking them during the flowering state will stunt the flowering plant as well as the percentage of flowering clones will not be expected to live as much as the vegetative clones will. A "mother" plant is usually reserved just for the purpose of taking clones, the mother plant has it's whole life for years in a vegetative state of continuos light and never let to flower, clones will be cut off as soon as the old cutting spots have regenerated.

    Use a razor blade to cut off cuttings at a slanted angle. Usually good clones can be taken towards the bottom of the plant, make sure these clones have a set of branches growing off them as well. Liquid rooting solutions are said to be better than powder. A warming pad may also be set underneath the clone until it's roots grow. Humidity is also great, so placing a slightly wet plastic over the plants may help in growing. The time for a clone to grow roots varies from a week and a half to a month, so patience is necessary.


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  • LESSON 21 - Harvesting




    When about 75 percent of the hairs of your plant are reddish or brown (or that same percent of trichomes are cloudy) then your plant is ready to harvest. Depending on how early or late you take it, your marijuana may produce a different type of high. Early harvesting will produce a "energetic" high, while harvesting late produces a "stupid" high. This is because the longer it takes to harvest the more the THC will convert to CBD and CBN producing the later high. You can cure by cutting off every thing except the buds and then hanging the whole plant upside in a dry dark place for a minimum of 2 weeks. This will ensure it dries out completely, then for another 2 weeks place the buds in a type of plastic container and once a day open the lid to let the buds breath. After this 4 week cure your buds will be good to smoke.


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  • LESSON 20 - Regeneration




    After harvesting a plant you may regenerate the plant to live another time for a 2nd/3rd vegetative state. To do this simply do not cut too much of the plant during harvest. Only take about 40% of the plant by taking only top colas and leaving all giant fan leaves and remaining shoots and buds. Under about 2 weeks of 24 hours of light they will start to grow again. Flush/Leach the plant one more time before feeding it with a plant food high in nitrogen to further jump-start the vegetative state.


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  • LESSON 19 - Transplanting




    Transplanting a plant is the process of taking a plant from one pot to a larger one. It is recommended that if you must, only transplant once or twice during the plants entire life cycle. To transplant, simply place your plant's pot in the larger pot and put dirt around the small plant until a mold has been made. Hold your plant by it's stem and tap on the bottom of the small pot and the whole mold should come out. Simply put the plants dirt and roots into the mold and secure it with more soil.


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  • LESSON 18 - Pests




    Mites and fungi can ruin your plants. If your areas is prone to contamination or outside nature (even yourself) you may have a pest problem. By using a small amount of soap on the leaves of the plants it will hold off many pests. If fungus starts growing on your plant, immediately remove the branch or buds infected and spray a vegetable-safe fungicide on the plant, do not spray fungicide on a plant that does not have a history of fungus. Do not bring an outside plant into your indoor grow space as it will most surely infect your plants and you will have to completely sanitize your area again before another grow.


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  • LESSON 17 - Temperature




    Average temperature in a grow room should not exceed above 80 degrees. Lights and carbon dioxide will often raise temperatures to over 90 degrees so you must have a thermometer in your grow room to check on the temperature. A plant on a cold concrete floor is not really good either as the roots will often get cold and adversely stunt growth so if your area is not carpeted or warm you must elevate your plant.


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  • LESSON 16 - CO2




    Increasing the amount of carbon dioxide your plant is exposed will make your plant grow much faster. Carbon Dioxide can be used at any time during the growing cycle, but because of it's expense, it is advised to use it during the flowering period. The whole cost of a carbon dioxide tank system varies but usually costs around $300 to $600. A cheaper method is called fermentation, this is where yeast destroys itself and carbon dioxide is what is produced. Natural gas also contains carbon dioxide, but the actual heat may be a problem, propane is good for this. If you use carbon dioxide during the flowering period you will actually only need half as much as the vegetative state as the lights switch to 12/12 the plant will not need the carbon dioxide during it's night state.


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  • LESSON 15 - Plant Food & Nutrients




    The standard in nutrients on any plant food are the N-P-K (example 15-15-15). N is for Nitrogen. P is for Phosphorus. K is for Potassium. There are also ingredients sometimes inside this called trace elements. These may include iron, manganese and zinc. A good plant food will have the proper NPK balance and include the trace elements. In the vegetative state the plant need more nitrogen, usually a good plant food that would be suitable for growing tomatoes will do the job. At the vegetative state look for 20-20-20 NPK. By using more than a teaspoon per gallon of plant food or greatly exceeding the recommended dose you will cause fert-burn (termed from the tips of the leaves becoming very dry as if burnt), which means you have over fertilized, you will quickly see the results in the leaves and the plant may die shortly if you do not quickly over-water the plant and flush/leach the nutrients from the soil or reservoir.


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